How to Measure Your Kitchen Doors

Yes — that's exactly what Kitchen-Pros is designed for. Our replacement doors fit your existing cabinet carcasses. As long as the cabinets are structurally sound, you can keep them and simply swap the doors for a fraction of the cost of a full kitchen replacement.

Measure the existing door itself (height × width in mm). If you no longer have the door, measure the cabinet opening and add a 2mm overlap on each edge. Our measuring guide above walks you through this step by step.

We offer bespoke sizes across all our configure-to-order ranges. Submit a bespoke enquiry and we'll come back within 24 hours.

Doors are supplied without hinges as standard. We sell soft-close and standard hinges separately in our accessories section.

Stocked ranges are typically 7–10 working days. Made-to-measure and configure-to-order ranges are typically 3–4 weeks from order confirmation. We'll give you a clear lead time with your quote.

Yes — sample doors are available for most ranges. Contact us at info@kitchen-pros.uk or call 0114 463 0090.

Stocked ranges (Waterford, Jayline, Lacarre, Wilton, Thornbury, Hadley, Ora) are available to buy online in fixed standard sizes. Configure-to-order ranges (Bella, Valore, Zurfiz) offer far more flexibility — these are quoted individually and manufactured to order.

We supply the doors — fitting is typically done by the customer or a local kitchen fitter. Replacement door fitting is straightforward for most people with basic DIY skills.

Look inside the hinge cut-out (the round recess) on the door you are replacing. In almost every case you will see a small centre hole in the middle of that recess — it is left behind by the cabinet hinge sinking drill used to cut the recess in the factory.

That centre hole is your datum. Measure from the top edge of the door down to that hole, and record the same for every hinge. It is far more accurate than trying to judge the middle of the recess by eye, and it is the measurement we drill to.

Standard hinge positions are usually around 100mm from the top and 100mm from the bottom, but never assume — always measure your own doors and write the figures down.

Use an engineer's square. Sit the stock (the thick edge) against the edge of the door and line the hinge plate up to the blade — that gives you a true 90° reference so the hinge sits square to the door edge rather than very slightly skewed.

A hinge fitted even a degree or two out is the single most common reason a replacement door will not hang level, and it is very hard to correct once the screw holes are made. Mark your screw positions with a bradawl or centre punch first, check square once more, then drive the screws.

A combination square or a small try square does the same job. What matters is that you are working to a true right angle and not to the eye.

Very few. A metal tape measure, a screwdriver or drill-driver, a bradawl or centre punch, and an engineer's square to keep the hinges true. A spirit level is useful for checking the finished run.

If you are drilling your own hinge recesses you will also need a 35mm cabinet hinge sinking drill (sometimes called a Forstner or hinge boring bit) and a drill stand or depth stop, so the recess is cut to a consistent depth. If you would rather not, we can drill the hinge holes for you before despatch.

Yes, check it before ordering. Almost all modern UK kitchen doors use a 35mm hinge boss, but some older or continental cabinets use 26mm. Measure the diameter of the round recess in your existing door.

If yours are 26mm, tell us when you order — the replacement will need drilling to suit, and standard 35mm hinges will not fit.

You don't normally need to measure this one. On UK cabinet doors the hinge hole is a standard 22.5mm from the side edge of the door to the centre of the hole, and the hole itself is a standard 35mm diameter.

Because both are standard, the only figures we actually need from you are how far each hinge sits down from the top or up from the bottom — measured to that small centre hole in the recess.

Three hinges: measure top and bottom as usual, then measure from the top edge down to the centre of the middle hinge. If it sits exactly halfway, just tell us 'centre'.

Four hinges (usually tall doors over about 1700mm): measure the two upper hinges from the top edge and the two lower hinges from the bottom edge. A common factory pattern is 100mm and 750mm from each end — but treat that as a starting point, not a promise.

Measure every door. Hinge positions drift between cabinets, even in the same kitchen, and even where the doors are the same size.

Yes, and you usually can without moving a single screw. A standard European hinge adjusts on three axes:

Side to side — the screw nearest the door closes or opens the gap between neighbouring doors.
In and out (depth) — the rear screw pulls the door closer to the cabinet or pushes it proud.
Up and down — on most hinges this is the mounting plate on the cabinet, not the hinge arm.

Work along a run rather than door by door: get one door right, then match its neighbour to it. Adjust in quarter-turns and close the door to check after each one.

If a door still will not sit square after adjustment, the usual cause is a hinge that went on slightly out of true — which is why it is worth using an engineer's square when you fit them.